Care & Diet
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Care & Diet |
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The bigger the better. If your guinea pig is not to live in the house then ideally it will be kept in a shed or outbuilding which lets in daylight but is draft free. Alternatively the guinea pig can be kept indoors. Experience has proven that it is normally preferable for females only to be kept indoors, unless your boys totally adore each other! or they have the space the size of a bathroom. The accommodation which should have locks, should be off the floor and protected from the elements and predators such as foxes, rats, some dogs, some cats, some birds and some children. Foxes and rats are good at opening hutch doors and digging or chewing. The hutch should have a bedroom end which should be dark and snug. During the cold, damp months it should be brought into a shed or outbuilding which lets in daylight but not drafts.
A thick bedding of quality hay on newspaper is our first choice along with a constant rack full of hay. Hay must be availalabe at all times for eating, off the floor in a hay rack. Because it can carry lice and fungal spores it is not suitable as bedding but okay to eat as long as it is dry, clean and sweet smelling. For our hayracks we use ordinary, clean, sweet smelling farm hay. Research has proven that sawdust or woodshavings can cause respiratory problems or the aroma can have adverse affects. You will need ceramic bowls rabbit size and water bottles. Keep the water bottles and water spout clear of algae as this harbours bacteria, one hay rack, and an anti-bacterial spray for use when cleaning. A salt or mineral lick and a tunnel would be ideal but not essential.
A grass run with easy access is preferable. It should have a lid and a shaded area. You will need a floored nest box. Never leave you guinea pig in a grass run overnight, foxes or rats will dig underneath to get to them. The run should be moved on to fresh grass every time it is going to be used. The run can also be moved to a concrete area which will help to keep the nails trimmed. Make sure there is nothing around which may be harmful to your guinea pig like plastic sweet wrappers, posionous weeds ( see Peter Guerney's website) and dog excrement. S THE KEY TO A GOOD GUINEA PIG DIET Do not feed too much of the same thing too often (excluding hay). Guinea pigs teeth grow throughout their lives, they therefore need to be kept down with an abundance of hay and some dry feed. The dry feed should not contain chemical colourants as they can give the symptoms of diabetes amongst other abnormalites. The ingredients list has to, by law state whether this chemical is included. Once you have found a supplier of chemical colourant free food you will need to check with each purchase as companys sometimes change suppliers which could mean the addition of the chemical colourant. If you buy your guinea pig food from a bin you need to ask the shop to show the bag it was supplied in (or a new bag). The bin also needs to be clean and should not have the feed stuck to the sides indicating old feed or damp. The scoop needs to be clean and dry if not it could harbour bacteria which could have an adverse affect on your guinea pigs. Guinea pigs do not make their own vitamin C so they are relying on you to be the provider. Guinea pigs munch for around 16 hours per day so make sure they are munching on the right stuff. People often ask how much should I feed my guinea pig ? This is a tough one as every guinea pig is different. You will soon be able to gauge how much your guinea pig likes to eat, therefore avoiding too much waste. The dish is cleaned as and when but at least once a week. Do not put fresh feed on top of old feed. The total amount of fresh mixed vegetables and fruit with the skin on required for each guinea pig daily is approximately one cupful. When it comes to vegetable and fruit "BE CREATIVE AND COLOURFUL". The key is not to feed too much of the same thing too often ! Feeding veg direct from the fridge can cause diarrhoea. The following is a good selection:
These are just a selection, please see Peter Gurney's website or book The Guinea Pig for a greater expansion on a guinea pigs diet.
I cannot stress enough how important diet is. A lot of people seem to be
missing the point that a guinea pigs natural habit is to roam amongst wild
vegetation where all their dietary and a lot of medical needs are met. If
you give your guineapig too much of the same thing too often you will
probably come across a stumbling block at some point whether it be an
imbalance of calcium, and phospherous, a lack of vitamin c or a build up of
gas from too much of the wrong thing. Some illnesses and often death are
caused through an illness brought on by an incorrect diet. Please refer to
www.guinealynx.co.uk for more
information about diet.
A lady came to us saying that each morning she put out a small tray with lots
of bits
of veg and some fruit on it in for her guinea pigs. "Was this ok?"
she asked, the answer to which is "perfect"!
See your local farm shop for what they call "the rubbish"
(don't forget to wash it first). Your guinea will think Christmas
has come early!
Please remember that guinea pigs cannot be sick, so if there is a gut problem it can result in bloat which is very painful and often fatal (like colic in horses).
There are a number
of reasons why a guinea pig stops eating. The following are conditions which can be dealt with if caught in time.
They are:
A Dental problem
Oral Thrush
Bloat
Cystitis.
Although everything on our diet sheet is ok for guinea pigs there are a number of items which a lot of them dont like. The new diet sheet is a list of fruit and veg which MOST guinea pigs like. A SAFE DIET SHEET. (This diet sheet has been brought about by research into our own rescue guinea pigs and how diet can affect illness) CARROT TOMATO RADISH CUCUMBER CELERY CABBAGE BROCOLLI CAULI LEAVES FINE GREEN BEANS DESEEDED RED AND GREEN BELL PEPPERS PLUM HONEYDEW/CANTALOUPE MELON RASPBERRIES STRAWBERRIES APPLE RED AND GREEN GRAPES BLUEBERRIES. TIP - For 2 guinea pigs give a mug full of teaspoon size portions of different items with as much variety and colour as possible, daily....in the morning, so it is not lying in their gut all night. WARNING
I would just like to warn people about
the dangers of new spring grass.
THE DANGER OF NEW SPRING GRASS.
Bloat is a build up of gas or a blockage. Guinea pigs cannot be sick.
If they are suddenly put out on new spring grass, they are likely to get
bloat which is a very painful condition caused by the build up of gas or
a blockage. To avoid this situation, make sure they are used to grass
before the Spring, limit the grazing time, or put the run across
concrete/slabs and grass, reducing the size of the grazing area. If you
find your guinea pig looking miserable and hunched up he could well have
bloat. He needs prompt attention. The remedies are different for a
bubble of gas, compared to a blockage. But make no mistake, TIME IS
OF THE ESSENCE. If left untreated or left for too long without
suitable medication, it normally results in an excruciatingly painful
death as the guinea pigs gut will become completely twisted (as with
colic in horses).
All the following can be given in small amounts occasionally UNLESS THERE IS ALREADY A RENAL PROBLEM OR YOUR GUINEA PIG IS PRONE TO RENAL PROBLEMS IN WHICH CASE DO NOT FEED ANY OF THE FOLLOWING. Chicory Greens Carrot Tops Kale Spinach Parsley Dandelion Spring Greens TIP - Too much of the above items often causes renal problems, like the formation of bladder stones. For guinea pigs with renal problems, do not use tap water as the calcium level is too high. Use still, bottled water with a low calcium content (see reverse for analysis). Tesco Esklar is 6% and Waitrose do one at 2%. Both of these are fine to use. Top makes like Evian are around the 50% mark. The following wild plants are okay to feed to your guinea pig.
These are just a selection, please see Peter Gurney's website or book The Guinea Pig for more suitable wild plants. We would recommend that you refer to the vegetable chart on guinealynx website to adjust your guinea pigs diet, should he be susceptible to cystitis or bladder stones in which case you would be looking towards veg which is lower in phospherous and calcium.
THE IMPORTANCE OF HAY
DON'TS!
1) DON'T Feed your guinea out of vacuum packed, exhorbitantly priced,
plastic wrapped hay. I am sure it has been swept off the barn floor and
washed...yuk!
2) DON'T Put it on the hutch floor where it can get urinated and defecated
on....yuk!
3) DON'T Use straw instead of hay....inadequate!
4) DON'T Use one of those hanging balls. They don't hold enough and how
would you like to eat your dinner with your hands tied behind your back!
5) DON'T feed your guinea pig hay that smells musty or looks rank (even if
it was a freebie!)
DO'S!
1) DO Feed your guinea fresh farm hay. For sale here at £5 for a giant
sack! (Oxbows or similar)
2) DO Put it in a big rack off the floor. For sale here at £5.50
3) DO Use an abundance. It should always be available.
4) DO Ensure the rack is the correct height (on the back wall of a hutch
using wire curtain eyelets)
5) DO witness your guinea pig thrive on unlimited good quality hay
which contains mixed grasses.
WATERING The bottle should be out of the sun and refilled daily. Do not bother putting vitamin C drops in the water as after a few hours there is a chemical change in the spout making this addition a waste of time and money. Make sure the spout is at a comfortable height for the guinea pig. We find knicker elastic or a thick elastic band is preferable to the bottle wire that is used to secure the bottle to the cage. Some people like to use a trumpet head brush cleaner on the spout. THE WINTER Because of our wet summers, beware of the quality of the hay you are purchasing. Any dampness in the hay will produce fungal spores which can have an adverse affect on guinea pigs like fungal skin infections. The way round this problem is to use short cut straw. We use Dengie Medibed on top of newspaper with, lots of shredded paper in the bedroom end. Our hay is kept off the floor in a hayrack. Or you can use the imported fungal spore and lice free Oxbows Western Timothy Hay. Guinea pigs should not be kept outside during the cold, wet months as they are very susceptible to the damp. They should be kept either indoors or at the very least in a shed or disused garage. I have heard stories of guinea pigs being found dead in frozen bedding during the winter so please give this aspect of care serious consideration. On more than one occasion we have brought an older guinea pig indoors that has had laboured breathing due to the damp, cold winter weather. On every occasion their respiration has improved. THE SUMMER Guinea pigs are very susceptible to temperatures over 80 degrees Fahrenheit/ 20 Celsius. Please avoid plastic hutches and igloos as they get overheated very quickly in our hot weather. On a hot day just stick your nose inside one of those (green) plastic hutches to see. So here are a number of things you can do to help your guinea pig in hot weather.
If it is too late and your guinea pig is already suffering from heat exhaustion.....he will not be able to stand and be panting. You should wrap your guinea pig in a water-soaked towel for a short while, usually until he is able to stand again and respiration returns to normal. Do not give him a drink at this stage as the heat may have caused a swallowing abnormality and he could drown. Keep him in cool surroundings and when he has recovered, carefully and slowly syringe water in or use a drip-feed bottle. If there are no further problems try to rehydrate him as much as possible later. HOW TO BATH A GUINEA PIG
Towel wrapping your guinea pig is a great way for you and him to gain confidence BEDDING AND LICE These are the two options
THE APRIL LODGE HOMEOPATHIC UNIT AT RIVER, DOVER WITH SUE VILLIS I have had an interest in homeopathy for about 10 years now but find there is still much to learn but it makes for a very interesting subject. Homeopathy can be used on guinea pigs and other animals as well as humans and some farmers have been using it for years preferring it to conventional medicines. It cannot always take the place of conventional medicines as sometimes it is slow to work and sometimes difficult to match the treatment to the problem especially with animals as they can't tell you what is wrong. Homeopathy is a case of 'like cures like' which means the treatment used, would in its raw state, actually cause the problems you are treating, but the raw materials are diluted many times, so as not to cause any adverse effect. It works by stimulating the body to heal itself, so it is important to find a good match. By caring for your guinea pig, you will get to know its character and little ways and will notice any changes in its behaviour and if they are not feeling too well. It is best to use one remedy at a time, until a good match is found. Most of the remedies cover a wide range of physical and physiological problems and you will find that not all of them match. The tablets/pilules should not be handled as it will weaken the remedy. For the treatment of guinea pigs, one should be tipped into the lid and tipped into a pill crusher or crushed between 2 teaspoons, (not pilules as they shoot ound the room!). Sprinkle a little on their dried food and some in a drop of water and syringed into the guinea pigs mouth or sprinkled onto a bit of cucumber or apple. When changing the remedy, the crusher or teaspoons must be washed so that there is no trace of the previous remedy. It is best to start with 6c which is the main one found in the health food shops and chemists. These are a few examples of treatment:- ARNICA for bruising especially used before and after a dental APIS MEL used for red hot swellings e.g.. bites and stings HEPAR SULPH skin abscess MERC SOL tooth abscess NUX VOM constipation I have found that a mixture of RHUS TOX and CAUSTICUM helps an older guinea pig that has suddenly developed a tooth problem, especially the back teeth, usually due to arthritis which stops the guinea pig grinding its teeth, which leads to overgrown teeth. The guinea pig in this case will have to have the teeth ground down by the vet but if the homeopathic treatment is started straight after, it helps get the jaw moving again and the teeth will grind down. This is only a guideline and doesn’t always work, especially if there is another underlying problem. THE END OF THE ROAD This subject is hardly ever mentioned. But one day we all have to face the end of the road. We don't like to see our animals suffer and fortunately we are allowed to use euthanasia on them. The big question is, of course, when is the right time and how will you make the decision?
If you do decide to have your guinea pig (or any
animal for that matter) euthanased, please ensure
the vet gasses the guinea pig first. The guinea pig should
be unconscious before he is given the lethal injection. You can ask to
be present if you wish.
So my advice would be. When the vet says "it might be kinder to have him put to sleep", please contact the Cambridge Cavy Trust on 07721 026401 who will put you in touch with your nearest Rodentologist or Guinea Pig Health Advisor for at least a second opinion. We know of many a guinea pig that has been incorrectly diagnosed and euthanased, so this is definitely worth considering. On a more positive note, losing a guinea pig is a huge learning curve for children who have not experienced this before. I have been informed many a time, that when the family lost their guinea pig they went through the whole ritual. Ceremony, burial, prayers and tears, then later. when a more serious matter arose, i.e. Granny passes away, the children appeared more able to cope with their loss.
Pet Bereavement Helpline - Tel 0800 096 6606 or you can email on pbsmail@bluecross.org.uk For any queries on the care of a guinea pig please contact us at aprillodgeguinea@aol.com
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Dandelion leaves - are a diuretic but you
can give a small amount 
Parlsey - is rich and nutritious in
vitamin C
Clover - helps the coat.
